Pears
Grow Your Own: Pears (From Suckers – Rare but Possible)
Pear trees are not known for producing suckers the way apples, plums or hazel do. Most pears grow on a single trunk and stay politely in their lane. But under the right conditions: stress, damage, grafted rootstock behavior or certain species traits, a pear tree can send up suckers from the base or roots.
These suckers can sometimes be grown into new pear trees. But the outcome depends entirely on what part of the tree the sucker came from. This page explains the logic, the method and the expectations.
What is a sucker?
A sucker is a shoot that emerges from:
- the base of the tree
- the roots
- the rootstock (if the tree is grafted)
It is genetically identical to the part of the tree it came from, but that part may not be the fruiting variety.
This is the key.
The critical question:
Is the pear tree grafted or seed‑grown?
This determines everything.
✔ If the tree is seed‑grown
A sucker will be genetically identical to the tree itself. You can grow it into a new pear tree with the same traits.
✖ If the tree is grafted
The sucker comes from the rootstock, not the fruiting variety.
This means:
- the sucker will NOT produce the same fruit
- the sucker may produce small, hard, wild‑type pears
- the sucker may be ornamental only
- the sucker may be extremely vigorous (rootstock traits)
This is the most common scenario.
✔ If the tree is wild or feral
Suckers are normal and grow true.
✔ If the tree is Asian pear (Pyrus pyrifolia)
Some varieties sucker more readily.
When do pear trees produce suckers?
Pears rarely sucker unless:
- the trunk is damaged
- the graft union is stressed
- the tree is under drought stress
- the roots are disturbed
- the tree is very old
- the rootstock is a suckering species
- the tree is cut down (suckers emerge from surviving roots)
Suckers are a stress response more than a normal growth habit.
Can you grow a new pear tree from a sucker?
Yes, but you should understand what you’re getting.
✔ If the sucker is from a seed‑grown tree
You get a clone of the parent tree. Fruit will match the parent.
✔ If the sucker is from a wild pear
You get a wild pear. Fruit may be small, firm, tannic or excellent for cooking.
✖ If the sucker is from a grafted tree
You get the rootstock variety. Fruit will NOT match the parent.
Rootstock pears are often:
- extremely hardy
- extremely vigorous
- extremely disease‑resistant
- producing small, hard, astringent fruit
They are useful, but not dessert pears.
How to remove and root a pear sucker
Step 1: Identify the sucker
Look for shoots emerging:
- from the soil near the trunk
- from exposed roots
- below the graft union (a swelling on the trunk)
Step 2: Dig carefully
Use a trowel to expose:
- the base of the sucker
- the point where it connects to the root
- any small roots it has formed
Step 3: Sever cleanly
Use sharp pruners to cut the sucker away with:
- a small section of root
- or a heel of bark
This increases success.
Step 4: Pot it up
Plant in:
- a deep pot
- well‑draining soil
- bright, indirect light
Step 5: Keep evenly moist
Not soggy. Not dry.
Step 6: Harden off and plant out
After 6–12 weeks of stabilization.
What to expect from a sucker‑grown pear tree
Growth
Suckers are often:
- vigorous
- fast‑growing
- eager to establish
Fruit
Depends entirely on origin:
- seed‑grown parent: identical fruit
- wild parent: wild fruit
- grafted parent: rootstock fruit (variable, often not dessert quality)
Pollination
Same rules as all pears:
- pears are self‑incompatible
- need a genetically different partner
- bloom time must overlap
A sucker from a grafted tree will NOT pollinate the grafted top. They are genetically different.
Wildlife and orchard ecology
A sucker‑grown pear tree will attract:
Pollinators
- bees
- hoverflies
- early spring insects
Birds
- robins
- starlings
- cedar waxwings
- woodpeckers
Mammals
- deer (protect young trees)
- squirrels
- raccoons
Insects
- leafrollers
- aphids
- caterpillars
- pear psylla (regional)
Even a rootstock pear is a valuable wildlife tree.
Common problems
Sucker dies after removal
Cause: too few roots, transplant shock.
Sucker wilts
Cause: too much sun too soon.
Sucker grows but never fruits
Cause: rootstock genetics.
Suckers keep returning
Cause: grafted tree under stress.
Seasonal rhythm
Spring: Best time to remove suckers.
Summer: Rooting and stabilization.
Autumn: Plant out in mild climates.
Winter: Protect young trees from frost.
Grow Your Own · Orchard Logic · Domestic Systems
Related Matters
- Rootstock vs Scion Logic
- Pollination Basics (Fruit Trees)
- Pear Variety Logic
- Dormancy Logic
- Orchard Ecology
- Rooting & Sprouting Basics
- Wild Pear Behavior

